Nicolas de Bonnefons, valet to King Louis XIV, wrote the cookbook Les delices de la campagne. It was one of the first cookbooks to replace spices with vegetables and fresh herbs. It also emphasizes the natural flavor of meat. Cloves appear in only 9% of recipes, while nutmeg appears in 5%. Pepper appears to be a strong presence, at 18%, but in reality, it is almost always a generic “pinch of salt and pepper,” much like that often found in modern recipes. Sugar is reduced equally rapidly, limited to 8% of recipes. The flavors separate, and sweet dishes collapse, ending up at the end of the meal: dessert.
